On 28 September 2025, in Seoul, Janja Garnbret claimed gold in both lead and boulder at the IFSC World Championships. The double victory lifted her tally of senior world titles to ten, a record no other competition climber has approached.
Two disciplines, one clean sheet
The championships unfolded across a week in the South Korean capital. Garnbret progressed through the boulder semifinals without a single fall, reading sequences that others misjudged.
By the time the lead final began, the result already felt settled. Still, she closed the route clean, topping out while the crowd rose around her.
Ten titles, one first
The Seoul medals extended a collection that began to pile up in 2019. That season, Garnbret won all six Bouldering World Cups — topping 74 of 78 problems — and then took three golds at a single World Championships in Hachioji. No climber had ever swept the entire competition calendar that way.
Her Olympic record follows a similar line. She won the first women’s sport climbing gold in Tokyo, then defended it in Paris three years later under the new boulder-and-lead format.
Between those Games, she became the first woman to onsight an 8c route outdoors. In June 2026 she made the first female ascent of Bibliographie, a 9b+ at Céüse.
Ten world titles resets a number that already belonged to her. In Seoul there was no drama of a narrow escape — just a quiet confirmation that the distance between Garnbret and the field remains unchanged, and vast.
